Factory suspension was designed for 1960s highways and bias-ply tires. It's soft, it rolls in corners, it bottoms out over bumps, and it feels like a boat.
Ridetech builds coilovers and air suspension for classics. You get modern damping, adjustable ride height, and cornering that doesn't feel like you're steering the Titanic.
Front: Upper and lower control arms, coilovers, sway bar Rear: Leaf springs or coil springs, shocks, adjustable 4-link or 3-link
Total kit: $3,500-$6,000 depending on air vs coilover and complexity.
Coilovers ($3,500-$5,000): - Fixed ride height (or manually adjustable) - Simple, reliable, less to break - Best for canyon carving and track days
Air ride ($5,000-$7,000): - Push-button ride height control (drop it for shows, raise it for speed bumps) - Compressor and air tank add weight and complexity - Best for show cars and daily drivers
For most street/strip builds, coilovers are the move. Air is for cars that sit at shows or need clearance for steep driveways.
This is a full weekend project. You're pulling the entire front and rear suspension.
Front suspension: 1. Jack car, support on stands at frame rails 2. Remove wheels, brake lines, sway bar 3. Support lower control arm with jack 4. Unbolt upper and lower ball joints, remove old control arms 5. Install new upper/lower control arms with coilovers 6. Reinstall brakes, wheels, align suspension geometry
Rear suspension: 1. Remove wheels and shocks 2. Support rear axle with jack 3. Unbolt leaf springs (or coil springs) from axle and frame 4. Install new 4-link bars, coilover mounts, and coilovers 5. Set ride height and pinion angle 6. Reinstall wheels, bleed brakes
Alignment: After install, get a full alignment at a shop that understands classics. Ride height affects camber, caster, and toe.
- Coilover bind: If suspension is too low, coilovers can bind at full droop. Set ride height with 1-2" of droop travel remaining. - Pinion angle: Rear suspension angle affects driveline vibration. Use an angle finder to set pinion 2-3° down from driveshaft. - Brake proportioning: Lowering the car changes weight transfer. You'll need an adjustable proportioning valve to prevent rear lockup.
First drive: The car feels ALIVE. Turn-in is instant. Body roll is gone. Bumps are absorbed instead of launching you into the headliner.
On the highway: You're not fighting the wheel. The car tracks straight. Crosswinds don't push you around.
In corners: You can actually feel the tires grip. The car leans, loads the outside tires, and drives through the corner. No more praying and understeering into the weeds.
This is the upgrade that makes a classic feel modern.