The 1968-1972 Chevy Nova is the most overlooked muscle car engine swap platform in existence. While everyone fights over Camaros and Chevelles, the Nova sits in the wings — lighter than both, with the same engine bay dimensions, the same SBC mounting points, and prices that haven't caught up to its cousins yet. If you want more power without refinancing your house, start here.
Three reasons the Nova wins on paper before you turn a wrench.
Weight. A stock 1968 Nova weighs about 3,100 lbs with a small block — 200-300 lbs lighter than a Chevelle. Same power, less car to move. Quarter-mile times drop without changing anything else.
Engine bay. The Nova shares its platform geometry with the first-gen Camaro. The engine bay accepts everything: small block 350, big block 454, LS swap with room for accessories. Motor mount dimensions match Camaro — every swap kit written for a first-gen Camaro fits a Nova.
Parts availability. The Nova runs GM's familiar SBC motor mount geometry. Summit Racing, JEGS, and CJ Pony all stock Nova-specific kits. eBay has 10,000+ Nova parts listed at any given moment. You will never be stuck waiting for parts.
The result: Camaro-level swap support, Chevelle-level community knowledge, and a lighter car that nobody has bid up to unreasonable prices.
Before you buy anything, decide which path fits your budget and goals.
### Option 1: SB 350 Rebuild or Long Block (~$1,800-$2,500)
The small block 350 is the right engine for most Nova builds. It drops in without custom fabrication, weighs 545 lbs fully dressed, and a 350 with a cam, headers, and a carb makes 350-380 hp — plenty for street driving, bracket racing, and the occasional highway pull.
Best for: Budget builds, street drivers, anyone who wants reliability and common parts.
Long block: [GM 350 Remanufactured Long Block Engine](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=350+sbc+remanufactured+long+block&tag=rusttoroad-20) — plan for $1,800-$2,500 depending on supplier and core charge.
### Option 2: 383 Stroker (~$2,500-$3,500)
The 383 stroker is a 350 block bored and stroked to 383 cubic inches. Same physical size as the 350, same mounting points, bolts in identically. The difference: 410-450 hp and 450+ ft-lbs of torque with the right cam and heads. This is the upgrade path for people who want more power without an LS swap budget.
Best for: Performance builds on a moderate budget. A tuned 383 in a 3,100-lb Nova will run low 12s in the quarter with street tires.
383 stroker kit: [Scat 383 Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=383+stroker+kit+scat+chevy&tag=rusttoroad-20) — around $800-$1,200 for the rotating assembly to build into an existing block.
### Option 3: LS Swap (~$4,000-$8,000+)
The LS engine family (LS1, LS2, LS3) is the modern benchmark for bang-per-dollar. An LS1 from a scrapped Corvette or GTO makes 350-405 hp from the factory and responds aggressively to tuning. The tradeoff: it doesn't bolt in like a 350. You need LS-specific headers, engine mounts, a custom oil pan, and a wiring harness conversion.
Best for: Serious performance builds where power ceiling matters. An LS3 in a Nova will run 10s. Budget accordingly.
Source LS1 engines from junkyard F-bodies (1998-2002 Camaro/Firebird) or C5 Corvettes — $800-$2,000 used with miles.
Gather everything before the engine comes out. An engine swap with the car on jack stands is not the time to wait for shipping.
Motor mount kit: [Chevy Nova SBC Engine Mount Kit 1968-1972](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=nova+sbc+motor+mount+kit+1968&tag=rusttoroad-20) — mount the engine in the correct location or nothing lines up downstream. About $85-$150 depending on style.
Holley fuel pump: [Holley 12-150 Electric Fuel Pump Kit](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYCDA?tag=rusttoroad-20) — for carbureted builds, you need a mechanical or regulated electric pump at 5-7 PSI. About $60 for a quality unit.
Headers: [Hooker Competition Headers for 1968-1972 Nova SBC](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=hooker+headers+nova+small+block&tag=rusttoroad-20) — shorty headers are the straightforward swap; full-length headers flow better but require steering clearance work. About $200-$350.
Radiator upgrade: [3-Row Aluminum Radiator 1968-1972 Chevy Nova](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=1968+nova+aluminum+radiator&tag=rusttoroad-20) — the stock radiator won't handle a performance 350. A 3-row aluminum unit is the correct upgrade. About $150-$220.
Transmission crossmember: [1968-1972 Nova Transmission Crossmember Kit](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=nova+transmission+crossmember&tag=rusttoroad-20) — required for any transmission change from the original. About $80-$120.
Assembly lube: [Permatex Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBQ3EE?tag=rusttoroad-20) — coat all bearing surfaces before first startup. About $8. Non-negotiable.
Engine hoist: Rent one from AutoZone or O'Reilly free of charge. You cannot safely pull a 545-lb engine without one.
Start with the car on a level surface, engine cold. Disconnect the negative battery terminal first.
Drain the coolant and oil into separate drain pans. Remove the radiator and fan shroud to open up your workspace — you'll thank yourself during reinstall. Disconnect all electrical connectors at the engine (alternator, starter, temperature sender, oil pressure sender), the fuel line, and throttle linkage.
Label everything before disconnecting. A strip of tape and a Sharpie takes 30 seconds per connection and saves an hour of confusion during reassembly. Photograph the routing of every wire and hose with your phone.
Remove the hood. Two people, four bolts, five minutes. The open-hood visibility and clearance makes the entire job faster. Store it against a wall where it won't get knocked over.
Chain the engine to the hoist and take up tension. Remove the transmission crossmember if pulling the engine and transmission together, or support the transmission with a jack and pull the engine alone. Unbolt the motor mount bolts from the block — typically two bolts per side. Lift straight up.
Watch the clearances: Go slowly as the oil pan clears the crossmember. Tip the front of the engine slightly upward to clear the firewall. Have a helper guide.
Stock replacement rubber mounts bolt to the factory frame brackets and hold the SBC in the factory location. No fabrication required. Use these if you're installing a 350 long block in a car that had a 350 or 307 originally.
Polyurethane mounts (Energy Suspension or similar) are stock geometry in a harder compound. They reduce engine movement under hard acceleration and outlast rubber. A worthwhile upgrade on any build.
LS swap mounts require a kit specific to LS-in-Nova applications — Trans-Dapt, Dirty Dingo, and ICT Billet all make bolt-in kits. The LS block bolt patterns are different and the engine sits in a different position. Do not try to adapt SBC mounts.
Install mounts before lowering the engine in. Torque block-side bolts to 65-70 ft-lbs and frame-side bolts to 45-50 ft-lbs after the engine is fully seated.
On a carbureted 350, the wiring is straightforward: alternator (exciter wire and output cable), starter (heavy battery cable plus thin trigger wire), and sensors (oil pressure, coolant temp).
If the replacement engine has the same sensor locations as the original, your existing harness routes identically. If you added a one-wire alternator, run a single 10-gauge wire from the output terminal to the junction block.
LS swap wiring: The LS engine management system is an entirely different discipline. Plan for a standalone wiring harness from a specialist supplier.
Wiring harness (LS swap): [Painless Performance LS Standalone Wiring Harness](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=painless+performance+ls+wiring+harness&tag=rusttoroad-20) — about $600-$900 for a quality unit. Do not buy the cheapest option. Electrical gremlins from a poor harness will haunt you for years.
Shorty headers are the no-drama path. They fit most 1968-72 Novas without modifications to the steering or firewall, clear the starter without issues, and still offer a meaningful improvement over cast iron manifolds.
Full-length headers require notching the steering box clearance on the passenger side and careful routing past the starter. The payoff is real — 15-25 additional hp — but plan the extra fabrication time.
Hooker Comp headers are the most proven fitment for 1968-72 Nova SBC. Run dual 2.5" exhaust for performance builds up to 400 hp; step up to 3" if you're pushing past that.
TH350: The correct transmission for most Nova 350 builds. Rated to 450 ft-lbs input torque — enough for a mild 350 or 383. Keep it and rebuild it (~$300-$500) if serviceable.
TH400: For 400+ hp builds. Heavier and stronger than a TH350. Requires a different crossmember. Install a shift kit for faster engagement.
700R4/4L60E: Adds overdrive, dropping highway RPM by 30% and improving fuel economy. The 700R4 swaps into the tunnel without major modification. Worth considering if this is a long-distance cruiser.
If you change transmissions, buy the correct crossmember kit for that transmission in a 1968-72 Nova. Universal crossmembers cause alignment headaches.
The original radiator was sized for a 250-hp stock engine. A performance 350 or 383 will overheat with the original 2-row unit under sustained highway driving or in traffic.
Install a 3-row aluminum radiator and a new high-flow water pump at the same time. Aluminum sheds heat faster than copper-brass, a new water pump eliminates the question of pump condition, and you're already doing the work.
High-flow water pump: [GMB High Performance Water Pump SBC 350](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=sbc+350+high+flow+water+pump&tag=rusttoroad-20) — about $60-$90. Replace it while the engine is out.
Bleed the cooling system completely after fill — an air lock in the heater hose or top of the block will cause a hot spot and false overheating readings.
| Build | Engine | Target Power | Approx. Total Cost | Best For | |---|---|---|---|---| | $2K Build | 350 long block + tune | 270-320 hp | $1,800-$2,500 | Reliable street driver, resale value | | $5K Build | 383 stroker + cam + carb | 400-430 hp | $4,000-$5,500 | Weekend cruiser / light track use | | $10K+ Build | LS swap (LS1/LS3) + tuning | 400-500+ hp | $8,000-$12,000 | Serious performance, modern reliability |
The honest $2K recommendation: If you're not going to the track, a fresh 350 with an Edelbrock intake, Holley carb, and mild cam swap is the right call. It's reliable, sounds great, and makes the car genuinely fun to drive. Save the LS budget for a dedicated race build.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fix | |---|---|---| | Oil pressure drops at idle after startup | Worn oil pump or wrong viscosity oil | Replace oil pump; run 10W-30 break-in oil for first 500 miles | | Overheating at highway speed | Radiator undersized or air lock in system | Upgrade to 3-row aluminum; fully bleed cooling system | | Starter doesn't engage after swap | Wrong flexplate or misaligned bellhousing | Check bellhousing alignment; verify flexplate bolt pattern matches converter | | Headers contact steering shaft | Common with full-length headers on early Nova | Use shorty headers, or upgrade to Borgeson steering shaft for clearance | | Transmission slips after swap | Old fluid or shift kit needed | Fresh fluid and filter; install TransGo or B&M shift kit | | Engine sits too high, hood won't close | Wrong motor mount height or stack-up | Verify mount part number for your specific year; use offset mount if needed | | Coolant leak at water pump | Old gasket or worn pump seal | Replace pump and gaskets; use proper thread sealant on all fitting threads |
The Nova engine swap is approachable by muscle car standards. The engine bay is spacious, the parts are universal, and 40 years of SBC swaps mean every problem you'll encounter has already been solved on a forum somewhere.
Buy all the parts before the engine comes out. Rent the engine hoist. Remove the hood. Photograph every connection before you unplug it.
Done right, a 383-powered Nova is one of the best bang-per-dollar muscle cars you can build. Light, fast, visually understated, and running parts that cost half what Camaro equivalents go for. The classic car community hasn't caught up to the Nova yet. Take advantage of it.
*Looking for a [Chevrolet Nova to build](https://rusttoroad.polsia.app/cars/chevrolet)? Browse current Nova listings on RustToRoad.*
Discussion