🔧 Build Profile
How Much Does It Cost to Restore a Datsun 240Z?
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Parts Availability: moderate
The 240Z has gone from "cheap Japanese classic" to serious collector car in the past decade. Values have tripled. The original L24 inline-6 is smooth and surprisingly capable. The big problem: these cars rust brutally — the unibody was thin-gauge steel with minimal rust protection. Rockers, floors, rear frame rails, and the spare tire well are critical spots. Finding a genuinely rust-free 240Z is the hard part; the mechanicals are the easy part.
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Restoration Tiers & Cost Estimates
Tier 1: Running Driver
$8,000–$18,000
Rust stabilized, reliable L24, safe brakes. A running 240Z at this level is a genuinely fun, fast car.
Parts for This Tier
Tier 2: Clean Restomod
$20,000–$45,000
Full bodywork, fresh paint, rebuilt L24 or L28 swap, upgraded suspension (coilovers), 5-speed.
Tier 3: Concours or Full Custom
$50,000–$120,000
Frame-off rotisserie, correct factory paint code, period-correct or custom spec built L28, full interior.
Common Issues on the Datsun 240Z
Rear frame rail rot
THE single most important rust check on any 240Z. The rear frame rails (behind the rear wheels) rust from inside out. Poke with a screwdriver — any penetration means major structural work.
critical
Spare tire well and rear floors
The rear hatch area and spare tire well collapse from rust. Look carefully under the rear carpet.
critical
Rocker panels and floor pans
Full-length rockers and both floor pans are routine rust. Replacement panels are available from Motorsport Auto.
high
Unibody structure integrity
These are unibody cars — rust compromises the whole structure. Don't underestimate what "a little rust" means on a thin-gauge unibody.
high
Engine bay rust at strut towers
Strut towers can rust from inside the engine bay. Check the top of each strut tower for bubbled paint or softness.
medium
What to Look For When Buying
Before you hand over cash, go through every point on this list.
1
Jack up the rear and probe both rear frame rails behind the wheel wells — this is make or break
2
Remove rear carpet and press the spare tire well floor
3
Probe both floor pans with a screwdriver at the corners
4
Tap along both rocker panels front to rear
5
Check inside both front strut towers from the engine bay
6
Check the front frame rails under the car for scale rust
7
Run the L24 — should idle smoothly; check for oil smoke at idle
8
Test the 5-speed (if swapped) or 4-speed shift quality
9
Verify all six carburetors (triple SU or Hitachi) are synchronized
10
Check the nose cone (front clip) alignment — hints at prior collision
